"Open since 1922, Defonte’s is the old-school Italian sandwich shop blueprint. They serve big fat sandwiches with names like Golden Boy and Zio Vito—many of them padded with their incredibly thin fried eggplant. Someone who drove in from Jersey stands in line next to you, and the person behind the counter might be a little peeved that you’re trying to order at 3:15pm, even though they close at 4pm. A visit to this cash-only spot in Red Hook is required eating." - willa moore, will hartman, bryan kim, molly fitzpatrick