Fowl - Review - St. James's - London - The Infatuation
"Fowl is a ‘beak to feet’ chicken restaurant down one end of Regent’s Street and perilously close to Leicester Square, but really it’s a Get Out Of Jail Free card when someone’s teetering on the edge of a tantrum. At this handsome shrine to poultry, adults are placated with beer towers while children are handed banana malt caramel soft serve. Although the food can sometimes lean too much (overly salty fries, extra umami mac and cheese), the chicken is great. And this is the only restaurant that’s made us consider a joint birthday party with our seven-year-old nephew. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch On weekends, families pile into curved butterscotch booths for Sunday roasts and chicken fat tarte tartins that feel a bit special. Shoppers pull up at the bar, glad to have found a place where they don’t have to use cutlery and, unlike one of the Colonel’s spots, can order a toddy sour. Fowl is a glorified fast food joint, but unsurprisingly given it’s Fallow’s sibling, quality still counts. Chicken strips are crisp and juicy, sauces are balanced—particularly a ‘Szechuan’ honey number—and while it's not going to blow anyone away, Fowl has saved us in a pinch more than once when we’re around central. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Food Rundown photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Four Strips Four strips doesn’t sound like it’ll be enough, but these are big, generous chicken tenders with a crunchy coating. The ‘Szechuan’ honey with chilli crisp and a drizzle of lemon mayo is our favourite sauce. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Mac & Cheese Mac and cheese could never be accused of being a light meal, but this one—with truffle, gruyère, and chicken fat—is especially decadent. It’s tasty and indulgent, but we’d order one for the table to share. It can get a bit much after a few bites. Koffmann Fries A handful of fries here is good, but any more than that and the savoury, salty chicken salt becomes overwhelming. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Spice Bag Fowl’s USP is their crispy, juicy chicken. So it makes sense that they know how to do a decent spice bag. The spice mix is pleasingly fiery and there’s a good helping of smoky vegetables. We just wish there was more of the slightly sweet curry sauce." - Sinéad Cranna
