"The city’s Mexican restaurant scene leans toward overstuffed burritos and birria, and Comedor Lilia is a nice change of pace. Why not uni and nasturtium leaves paired with heirloom beans? The ambitious restaurant from República & Co on the South Waterfront is the answer for upscale Mexican food that goes deep into the hyper-seasonal Pacific Northwest thing. The menu changes daily, so it’s unlikely you’ll ever eat the same thing twice. We recommend letting chef Juan Gomez take the reins and opting for the $98 tasting menu at the counter, and invite your Californian friend who insists there isn’t good Mexican food in Portland. photo credit: Brooke Fitts photo credit: Brooke Fitts photo credit: Brooke Fitts photo credit: Brooke Fitts Food Rundown The menu at Lilia changes depending on the season, but here’s an idea of what you can expect. Chayote Toreado Huarache This late-summer offering showcases thin slices of mild chayote paired with creamy housemade requeson, tart kiwi curtido, and crimson spoonfuls of sesame morita salsa. A few decades ago, this might be called fusion. Now it’s simply Mexican American food. Lobster Barbacoa It’s a meaty, chile-rubbed lobster tail encircled with garden’s worth of herbs and flowers atop an equally green snap pea congee. Salsa macha verde finishes off this stunning spring dish. Pork Collar Confit Order the juicy pork collar confit, if it’s available, to taste the meltingly tender meat paired with vibrant, highly seasonal ingredients like icicle radishes. Depending on the time of year it might come with carrot sikil pak or black bean caldo, plus pan arabe." - Krista Garcia
