Lilia Comedor
Pacific Northwest restaurant (US) · Pearl
422 NW 8th Ave, Portland, OR 97209
Highlights
Pacific Northwest dishes with Mexican influence and seasonal ingredients
Pacific Northwest dishes with Mexican influence and seasonal ingredients
"Having closed its South Waterfront location on June 8, the restaurant is set to relocate into the former De Noche space at 422 NW Eighth Avenue." - Dianne de Guzman
"At this intimate, window-lined, South Waterfront restaurant, chef Juan Gomez uses Pacific Northwestern ingredients to develop an inventive tasting menu using Mexican dishes as jumping-off points. Menus change often, but on any given visit, a meal may involve Columbia River sturgeon tucked into an enchilada Suiza with wild onion salsa verde, or tamales made with house-nixtamalized masa and spring pea salsa. If possible, nab a seat at the chef’s counter, where Gomez happily offers context as he cooks. Sister restaurants República and De Noche are also worth a visit in their own right."
"At this South Waterfront restaurant, chef Juan Gomez highlights Oregon produce, game, and seafood in intricate, creative moles, aguachiles, and masa creations. Past visits have involved ahi tuna in an electric serrano kiwi berry aguachile, butter-poached sunchoke with black garlic matsutake mole, and octopus tacos with salsa tatemada and pickled gooseberry; for dessert, expect anything from angular shards of blueberry meringue to huckleberry panna cotta with corn blondie crumble. Tastings are $$90 to $110 per person depending on the menu, with reservations available on OpenTable." - Brooke Jackson-Glidden
"The city’s Mexican restaurant scene leans toward overstuffed burritos and birria, and Comedor Lilia is a nice change of pace. Why not uni and nasturtium leaves paired with heirloom beans? The ambitious restaurant from República & Co on the South Waterfront is the answer for upscale Mexican food that goes deep into the hyper-seasonal Pacific Northwest thing. The menu changes daily, so it’s unlikely you’ll ever eat the same thing twice. We recommend letting chef Juan Gomez take the reins and opting for the $98 tasting menu at the counter, and invite your Californian friend who insists there isn’t good Mexican food in Portland. photo credit: Brooke Fitts photo credit: Brooke Fitts photo credit: Brooke Fitts photo credit: Brooke Fitts Food Rundown The menu at Lilia changes depending on the season, but here’s an idea of what you can expect. Chayote Toreado Huarache This late-summer offering showcases thin slices of mild chayote paired with creamy housemade requeson, tart kiwi curtido, and crimson spoonfuls of sesame morita salsa. A few decades ago, this might be called fusion. Now it’s simply Mexican American food. Lobster Barbacoa It’s a meaty, chile-rubbed lobster tail encircled with garden’s worth of herbs and flowers atop an equally green snap pea congee. Salsa macha verde finishes off this stunning spring dish. Pork Collar Confit Order the juicy pork collar confit, if it’s available, to taste the meltingly tender meat paired with vibrant, highly seasonal ingredients like icicle radishes. Depending on the time of year it might come with carrot sikil pak or black bean caldo, plus pan arabe." - Krista Garcia
"The city’s Mexican restaurant scene leans toward overstuffed burritos and birria, and Comedor Lilia is a nice change of pace. The ambitious restaurant from República & Co on the South Waterfront is the answer for upscale Mexican food that goes deep into the hyper-seasonal Pacific Northwest thing. The daily changing menu might feature Hakurei turnips in mole or a carrot tlacoyo, moodily plated with pipian negro, black truffle shavings, and a pop of orange carrot foam. Order the juicy pork collar confit if it’s available. Depending on the season it might come with carrot sikil pak or black bean caldo, plus pan arabe. Or better yet, opt for the $98 chef’s tasting menu at the counter, and invite your Californian friend who insists there isn’t good Mexican food in Portland." - krista garcia
