Lona - Review - Downtown - Nashville - The Infatuation
"Lona isn’t on the level of Bourbon Steak or The Catbird Seat when it comes to fancy dinners, but it’s the city’s best new option for special occasion Mexican. It’s a nice change of pace from what’s in the area —gestures to Broadway—with dishes that are fancier than your average taco shop order. The dining room, in the former Makeready spot in the Noelle downtown, could easily be mistaken for any place in Mexico City. A second or third date, executed in hushed tones, is definitely the move here. Split bites of a chipotle-spiced lump crab guacamole, a respectable queso fundido, and a well-seasoned steak tampiqueña with an undeniably fantastic version of refried beans. The margaritas also hold their own here with a fresh citrus taste that doesn’t feel like it’s been completely overwhelmed by triple sec. photo credit: Richard Sandoval Hospitality The decor matches the energy of the dishes, with its warm woods, brightly-colored pottery, and a striking mural of a Mexican woman adorned with a purple iris. And, for a Mexican spot Downtown with great margaritas and date-worthy queso, it’s relatively under-the-radar—most nights, you can easily walk in without a reservation. Food Rundown Lump Crab Guacamole Don’t let the terracotta hue of this guac throw you off—it is simply guacamole that’s been generously spiced with chipotle. The hunks of lump crab are hefty, but they get lost in the mix. Still, it’s a solid starter. photo credit: Richard Sandoval Hospitality Queso Fundido Lona’s queso fundido is the real deal, with a nice heft to the pool of cheese in the bowl and thick, crispy tortillas to bear the weight of it all. Add the chorizo for a spicier bite. photo credit: Richard Sandoval Hospitality Mushroom Quesadillas Even the non-vegetarians will be tempted to steal another wedge of this main. The cheese-to-mushroom ratio is perfect, sealing in all the fillings without losing each individual mushroom’s earthy contribution. Steak Tampiqueña Lona gets skirt steak right, tender and smoky in equal parts. But the refried beans that come on the side easily steal its thunder. They’re rich, creamy, and deserve more than sidekick status. Tres Leches Your appreciation for this dessert will depend on how milky you like your tres leches. Lona’s leans on the drier side—not our personal favorite—but all the flavor profiles for the dish are there." - Jackie Gutierrez-Jones
