"When it was named Cicchetti, this Italian restaurant by the San Carlo group was somewhere we’d send anyone without hesitation. But since then, the Knightsbridge spot has had a change of name and a change of heart. Small sharing plates are now big. Which would be a positive if things like the gnocchi sorrentina, that was once excellent, is now bland, and other pasta dishes taste like they’ve been attacked by a tsunami of salt on their way to the table. The pizzas have also gone downhill, although they’re pleasant enough. The room is the only similarity that remains from its old life as Cicchetti. The dining room has a fancy yacht crossed with a classic New York brasserie energy—all shiny deep brown wood and huge avant-garde art pieces. So if you need a decent pizza in a pretty room in the area, San Carlo can help. But if you’re hoping for a good bowl of pasta, look elsewhere. Food Rundown photo credit: Rianne Shlebak Mozzarella In Carrozza Fried mozzarella sounds like a foolproof dish. The cheese pull of all cheese pulls, right? Wrong. The thick discs of mozzarella are coated in sad pale breadcrumbs, and the cheese inside is cold. No cheese pull, no warmth, just a lump of cold cheese in a basil and tomato sauce that makes for a soggy starter. photo credit: Rianne Shlebak Tagliatelle Porcini A creamy mushroom pasta which starts off well, but the more bites you take, the more your tongue recoils from the sheer amount of salt. Margherita This is definitely not the best pizza in London, in fact it’s not even close. But it is one of the safest and best things here, so order it. photo credit: Rianne Shlebak Mafaldine Con Ragú Di Manzo If you like to cook bolognese at home, you should go ahead and do that. It will probably taste better than this slow-cooked beef ragu that’s pretty forgettable." - Rianne Shlebak
