"Wm. Mulherin’s looks like it belongs in the Catskills, but the music and crowd are the opposite of serene. Ear-popping volume aside, the part-boutique hotel, part-restaurant has big round tables, a fireplace, and a near-infinite number of Italian dishes that are worth grabbing. Stick to pasta, especially the pappardelle. It’s made with savory duck ragu that gets a touch of sweet bitterness from the chocolate mixed in. They also have decent Neapolitan pizzas, like the double margarita pie topped with mozzarella and burrata that you should order or use as ear muffs, your call." - candis mclean, alison kessler