Lingua Franca Review - Frogtown - Los Angeles - The Infatuation
"Lingua Franca is the Swiss army knife of the Frogtown dining scene. This charming spot set up against the LA River can function as a snacky wine bar if you want to graze between sips of chenin blanc, an under-the-radar weeknight option with candlelit tables and roast chicken, or a sunny brunch destination if you need a stack of sweet potato pancakes come the weekend. It gives you flexibility and natural beauty all day long—just expect to pay upscale prices for pleasant food that’s not quite great enough to plan a whole day around. This riverside restaurant comes from the people behind , a Frogtown shipping container-turned-sub-shop that dresses up familiar sandwiches with fancy condiments and pickled veggies. Two blocks away, Lingua Franca applies more or less the same philosophy to a sit-down space. The A-frame building right along the bike path is definitely a scene—in a low-key, high-fidelity vinyl collection kind of way where Eric Wareheim wouldn’t be out of place. Throw on some suede clogs and you’ll fit right in. The menu is made up of share plates you’d expect from a neighborhood spot, usually infused with something quirky (like root beer in the braised beef cheeks, or pomegranate seeds in the squash risotto). The whole thing changes semi-frequently, but you can always expect a mish-mash of dips, seasonal salads, and a few meaty entrees. Most dishes, like a lavash with crudo and cream cheese for scooping, or a grilled salad with citrus agrodolce and blue cheese crumbles, are perfectly fine but slightly forgettable. If there’s one that stands out, it’s the house burger—a thick, bistro-style creation that oozes brown butter and meat drippings between two english muffins. It tastes like a Big Mac grew up, spent a year in Lyon, and got sexy. But at $25 (or $30 if you add a side of fries), it’s not cheap, which is a recurring theme at Lingua Franca. As much as the distressed wooden tables, cozy banquettes, and countertop stools give off “casual neighborhood spot,” a full dinner here approaches splurge territory once you’ve added on wine and dessert. If you’re looking for a spot that’s as flexible as your friends are flaky, Lingua Franca fits the bill, especially for a leisurely lunch or Happy Hour drinks. And for dinner, it’s a respectable back-up option if you’re already in the area. The food isn’t going to blow your mind, but given the limited amount of places in LA where you can spend an evening sampling natty wine and listening to birds chirping by the riverbed, we’d still send someone here for a last-minute date night or impromptu friend hang. " - Nikko Duren
