Passerine - Review - Flatiron - New York - The Infatuation
"Just look at that romantic golden light, hitting the lush, leaf-printed wallpaper like a fading sunbeam. At this Indian restaurant in Flatiron (in the former Sona space), you can enjoy all the pros of picnicking in a meadow at dusk, with none of the cons. The tables are big and the chairs comfy, and there’s even a pendant lamp that looks just like the moon over by the bar. Dinner begins in the lounge-like drawing room, where you order caviar-accented snacks and excellent cocktails like the Green Magpie—an unexpectedly successful infusion of rum, cilantro, saffron, and green cardamom. Though Passerine is named for a scientific order of birds, tender meats are the real star at dinner. A creamy, citrusy Kolhapuri lamb tartare is served with delicate fried shiso leaves, splayed out like crest feathers. Spoon a bit of lamb on for each soft-meets-crispy bite. The mains are somewhat less exciting for now (though the spicing on both the slow-cooked cabbage and the winter squash is promisingly warm and nuanced)—so go heavy on more starters, like the crunchy, deep-fried shrimp Koliwada. photo credit: Todd Coleman photo credit: Todd Coleman photo credit: Todd Coleman" - Molly Fitzpatrick
