"Across the street from the Port Authority in Hell’s Kitchen, Sky Pavilion is an unassuming spot—especially when compared to some of the city’s other great Sichuan restaurants, where you might be greeted with an indoor koi pond. The flashiness here is all in the flavors, like the tingly tofu pudding, with more contrasting textures than a toddler’s sensory play bin, or the spicy-sweet, impossibly tender stir-fried rabbit. There are a handful of quirky platings at Sky Pavilion, like sliced pork on a swing, or the smoked spare ribs served in a miniature wheelbarrow. But for the most part, presentations are kept unfussy and straightforwardly appealing. So is the atmosphere. A server might be assembling dumplings at an unoccupied table in the back, and the decor consists mostly of gold paper fans lining one wall—opposite framed accolades and photos of the chef, who previously operated a Sichuan spot in Koreatown. Look closely, though, and you might spot Jack Ma and Bernie Sanders smiling alongside him in those photos. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte The dining room easily accommodates large parties, which is good news, because tackling as extensive a menu as this one benefits from the coordination of as big an offensive line as possible. Even better, the place is BYOB. Sky Pavilion is worth a visit regardless of how many people you can round up, but all this makes it an all-too-rare pre-theater option that’s both convenient and delicious. With crowd-pleasing dim sum and American Chinese entrees in the midst of the Sichuan specialties, it’s also a great place to bring peppercorn first-timers, your parents, or any visitors to NYC who’ve insisted on making a Times Square pilgrimage to take a selfie with an uncannily shiny wax Matthew McConaughey. Food Rundown photo credit: Kate Previte Tofu Pudding In Stone Wok Sizzling and spectacular. The flavors are warm and richly layered, but what makes this possibly our favorite dish at Sky Pavilion is the interplay of textures, particularly between the wonderfully silky tofu and still quite crunchy peanuts. photo credit: Kate Previte Zigong Style Stir Fried Spicy Rabbit Sweet, spicy, and garlicky—another menu highlight. The tomato-laced chili sauce is so flavorful that it can overwhelm the taste of the rabbit, but the chunks of meat are nevertheless very tender, while the dish’s many peppers remain crisp and satisfying. photo credit: Kate Previte Braised Fish Fillet With Sichuan Pepper Someone please open a spa where we, too, get to laze in a red jacuzzi, tucked under a blanket of fragrant green peppercorns. This silver pomfret sure makes it look luxurious. The mild, sweet, and flaky fish is a great canvas for the spice. photo credit: Kate Previte Dry Stir Fried Pork Intestine Offal enthusiasts, order this. The pork intestine is soft, fatty, and lightly funky, with a lovely crisp breading. photo credit: Kate Previte Crispy Chili Chicken with Dough Twist The crispy (as promised) chicken and crunchy dough twists arrive overflowing from a woven basket, a mala-spiced cornucopia. We’d prefer a slightly higher ratio of chicken to carbs, but it’s still a lot of fun to snack on. Braised Tofu With Crab Meat Sauce This dish—more classically Shanghainese than Sichuan—is not a must-have, but a good non-spicy option to diversify your spread. The vividly orange crab roe sauce is silky, soft, and comforting, with only the gentlest of resistance from the tofu, carrots, and peas. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Stir-Fried Loofah Also known as Chinese okra, this pale green gourd makes for a great, refreshing side order. Squishy yet firm, its taste and texture are somewhere between a savory cantaloupe and cucumber." - Molly Fitzpatrick
