MXO - Review - West Hollywood - Los Angeles - The Infatuation
"Dinner at MXO is the closest you can get to eating at a high-end resort in Mexico without crossing the border. That’s because this clubby Mexican steakhouse on La Cienega from the Ka’teen (and previously, Guerrilla Tacos) chef offers similar elements: women in Rococo Sand dresses, a bumping bar area with flashy agave cocktails, and a dining room that looks like a millionaire’s dude ranch, complete with patio fire pits and a glass bridge above a cactus garden you walk over to enter. For the most part, the shareable, rancho-steakhouse menu is perfectly fine—there are steaks cooked over mesquite with flour tortillas, chicharron-topped guacamole, and yellowtail aguachile decorated with asian pear, all of which are solid. Our biggest gripe is the grilled meats arrive from the kitchen close to lukewarm, which isn’t ideal for the prices you’re paying. MXO works best for a boozy, snacky night out with friends, especially ones who aren’t on a budget. Order a few chipotle margaritas, take advantage of the impressive (free) chips and salsa spread, and ogle the luxury sports cars lined up in the valet lot. Food Rundown Chips & Salsa Not to sound like grifters, but the one free dish at MXO might also be our favorite. The chips are expertly salted and come with not one, not two, but four condiments: roasted salsa verde, a tangy housemade crema, zippy cucumber-radish aguachile, and a chunky salsa macha that’s more flavor, less burn. photo credit: Garrett Snyder Cocktails Another MXO highlight is the cocktail list, which feature the sort of flamboyant drinks your fun aunt flaunts in her vacation photos. We especially like the Pura Candela, made with mango syrup and smoky chipotle-infused tequila, then topped with a torched corn husk that arrives smoking at the table (it’s just gimmicky enough to be fun). photo credit: SBE Michelada Oyster Shooter You can order these spicy, refreshing oyster shooters with or without mezcal. We’d suggest the former because A) booze and B) the spirit adds a nice smokiness that compliments the brine. Once you toss them back, the chamoy and Tajín on the rim are a nice little snack. Yellowtail Aguachile The thought of asian pear in an aguachile made us say “oooooo” and, sure enough, it was very tasty over slices of yellowtail sashimi. The issue is that the sweet fruit overshadows the rest of the spicy, tangy marinade. photo credit: Sylvio Martins Grilled Cabbage Caesar Flavor-wise, this grilled caesar delivers. The subtle saltiness from the dashi and char on the leaves go well together. Texturally, though, it’s a big sloppy mess of soft cabbage and sauce. photo credit: SBE Okinawa Sweet Potato Taquitos These crispy taquitos are the chef’s signature and can also be found at Ka’Teen and Guerilla Tacos. We’re glad they made this menu, too: they’re perfectly fried, not too dense, and topped off with a splat of sweet almond salsa that, combined with the sweet potato filling, reminds us of candied yams. photo credit: Brant Cox Bone Marrow Mollete Skip this. It tastes like any bean and cheese mollete you’d order off a Mexican breakfast menu, except it’s five times the price. You’re likely paying for the bone marrow your server carefully hollows tableside and drizzles over the toast, but the gimmick isn’t worth it. photo credit: Brant Cox Pork Al Pastor Few things measure up to al pastor shaved hot from the spit, but even so, we wish this al pastor-style pork chop had spent more time marinating, though the sear is nice. You’re given fresh corn tortillas, charred pineapple, and a pile of pickled onions to make tacos, but really it just left us dreaming about eating al pastor from our favorite taco spots. photo credit: Brant Cox La Carnita Asada Like the pork, the crust on this grilled skirt steak is excellent. It arrives a juicy medium-rare (love), but also decidedly lukewarm (don’t love). Wrapping a thick slice of beef with MXO’s buttery flour tortillas, which have a pleasant chewiness to them, takes things to the next level." - Sylvio Martins
