Pyro - Review - Southwark - London - The Infatuation
"Pyro does a very good job of convincing us that the gust of air drifting through the beach club-looking dining room is from an Aegean breeze, and not, in fact, a bus pulling off in the direction of Borough Market. The dishes at this modern Greek spot are hit and miss—the canapé-sized spanakopita feels like Scrooge’s take on the generous, joyful pie, but a Dorset lamb feasting board is delicious. Still, the food is only part of the reason you’re here. The garden bar is the other. video credit: Emily Hai photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Pause Unmute The outdoor space—with its ‘third night of the holiday’ feel—is singlehandedly making rattan an endangered material. The highest percentage of linen shirts we’ve ever seen laze about on sofas, sipping strong Eros cocktails (rum, tonka bean, date syrup, delicious) and hiding from the road behind sexily distressed wooden breezeblocks and strategically positioned olive trees. Every hour is golden hour out here, and when the weather’s right, it’s where you should sit with a glass of something crisp and a spread of dips. Food Rundown Potato Pita Cooked on the hearth, living forever in our minds. We make short work of these dense—in that pleasing creamy, potato way—fire-scorched discs. You don’t get any bread with your dips, so this is really an essential order. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Tzatziki & Black Olive Oil This didn’t taste like an £8 dip. It’s fine, but forgettable and the black olive overpowers any freshness. We do like the bowl it’s served in though—very Bond villain’s homeware line. photo credit: Emily Hai Spiced Feta & Marinated Sweet Peppers A very moreish dish and the best of the bunch, it had us coming back for greedy spoonfuls long after the bread was gone. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Spanakopita, Fragrant Herbs & Barrel Aged Feta This is a fancy description for something that is overly salty, the size of a pastel de nata, and has a slightly dry texture. photo credit: Emily Hai Market Crudités It’s possible for crudité to be beautiful. We know because the ones at Pyro could be centrepieces at a wedding reception. Served in a stone bowl filled with ice, the carrots, radishes, and asparagus spears are arranged like delicate flowers. They look beautiful and taste just as good. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Pork Pluma Souvlaki Skewer The pork pulls from the skewer with the merest nudge of a fork. We’d be happy with several of these and some dips and bread. photo credit: Emily Hai Sea Bream, Green Olives & Caper Leaves More capers, more citrus, more fresh, zingy flavours are needed in general here. This crudo is a bit flat. photo credit: Emily Hai Dorset Lamb Eating this makes you feel like you're attending a feast held in your honour. It’s delivered on a hulking wooden slab piled high with juicy lamb shoulder, salty anchovy yoghurt, and breads slick with lamb fat. It’s expensive, like everything here, but this dish is worth it. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch" - Sinéad Cranna
