"Carmel is two different restaurants at once. Early in the evening, there’s docile Carmel, when families and double dates head to this Mediterranean spot on Melrose for mezze and white wine as ambient music hums softly in the background. Then there’s clubby Carmel. That’s when the lights go down, the house music goes up, and groups of dressed-for-the-club friend groups pile into booths and order rounds of mezcal negronis. We’re not clear at what time this change happens exactly (during a recent meal, the lights dimmed so quickly we thought a server accidentally bumped the switch), but in general, we’d recommend arriving on the earlier side, if only so you can focus on what is most exciting about Carmel: the food. Thankfully, whether you show up at 5:30pm or 9:30pm, you’ll find creative Israeli-leaning dishes that are largely good, and sometimes great. Skip the pasta and fussy raw bar items and concentrate instead on the shareable mezze. That includes blocks of feta covered in chili crisp, crunchy mushroom cigars, and a standout red snapper schnitzel that’ll make you realize the world needs more schnitzel made from fish. Carmel’s dining room is large—cavernous even—so don’t be afraid to plan a big group outing here. But do be afraid of not ordering enough of their fluffy, sourdough pita for the table. It happened to us once and people got ornery. And that was before the Kygo started blasting. Food Rundown photo credit: Brant Cox The Bread Whenever a restaurant refers to its bread as “The Bread," it’s a good sign. The frisbee-sized flatbread at Carmel arrives with a soft golden exterior and a puff of steam hiding inside that escapes once you make the first tear. It’s a picture-perfect pita that will compliment every dish that’ll hit your table, so don’t get caught underordering. photo credit: Brant Cox Spicy Platter Each order of bread comes with a side of olives and tahini, but for the full dipping experience, we suggest upgrading to the spicy platter. It tacks on marinated peppers, garlic confit, and a giant block of feta buried in chili crisp—all things you’ll want to smear on fluffy pita. photo credit: Brant Cox My Grandma's Cigar The resident comedian of your group will probably request a photoholding this foot-long mushroom-filled cigar to their mouth like a 1920s mobster. And understandably so, it’s a funny picture. Just remind them that everyone wants to eat it after they’re done. photo credit: Brant Cox Spicy Halloumi And Citrus Salad A pretty forgettable salad. The giant cubes of fried halloumi are dry and the cilantro lime vinaigrette gets lost among giant leaves of lettuce haphazardly tossed together. photo credit: Brant Cox Red Snapper Schnitzel Apologies to chicken and veal, and pork, but we’re ready to crown a new schnitzel king. With its crackly-crunchy crust hugging a moist, flaky filet of snapper, this fried fish is easily the best dish at Carmel. If you’re eating at the bar, this and an order of bread is all you really need. photo credit: Brant Cox Gelato All the desserts we’ve tried at Carmel have been enjoyable, but the standout is the silky halva gelato decorated with date honey, tahini, and caramelized pistachios. It’s one of those desserts where everyone at the table proclaims they’ll have one bite, then end up fighting over the last spoonful." - Brant Cox
