"Restaurants went rogue in 2022. Some served unclassifiable food (see Nudibranch below), and others, like Dept of Culture, became full-on dinner parties with set menus and BYOB policies. At this tiny Bed-Stuy restaurant, most of the seating is around one big table. They serve a four-course menu inspired by the food of North-Central Nigeria, and the chef and owner walks you through each course, offering little jokes and anecdotes along the way. Your meal always starts with a pepper soup that has a bit of a kick, and if you’re lucky you might get some housemade cheese or nutty mushroom suya. Even if you’re tapped out on socializing, you’re going to make friends here. It’s just what happens when you’re eating good food in a room full of strangers who all brought bottles of wine." - carina finn koeppicus, kenny yang, neha talreja, bryan kim