"The tacos al carbón at El Último Baile, a former Oakland restaurant that’s running a four-month trial inside Saluhall, are already completely dialed in. Juicy meats taste like they’ve spent enough time slow-cooking to qualify for AARP, and charred, gossamer handmade flour tortillas hold up the napkins-required fillings beautifully. Options rotate daily, but if barbacoa’s on the menu, don’t hesitate. An expanded menu is in the works, but why wait for something that’s already this good?" - julia chen 1, patrick wong, lani conway