Dar Lbahja is an Astoria comeback story with great Moroccan food - Review - New York - The Infatuation
"As you order at this Moroccan restaurant in Astoria, you might wonder aloud if you’re getting too much food. Your server will warmly encourage you to go big: “It’s the Moroccan way.” She’s right. The only thing you’ll regret about your extraordinarily comforting meal at Dar Lhabja is everything you didn’t eat. This is the kind of place that makes you feel welcome. The dining room is decorated with homey tapestries and photos of Morocco, and filled with families dexterously pouring fragrant mint tea from on high, even as their eyes remain glued to the Morocco national football team on TV. It’s an excellent choice for a casually overachieving lunch or dinner, worth a special trip to the neighborhood. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte Pause Unmute Dar Lbahja is from a chef who used to be at nearby, now-closed Dar Yemma, and we’re glad to have her cooking back—especially the tender, aromatic lamb tagine. But however much you end up ordering, leave some space for dessert here, because the jahwara is something really special. Food Rundown Harira Easy to overlook, but one of our favorite items on the menu. This satisfyingly meaty soup with lentils, chickpeas, and cubes of beef balances considerable savoriness with a bright tomato broth. Lamb Tagine The bone-in lamb shank is encircled by prunes and sunny, golden apricots, like they’re its adoring fans seeking an autograph. After eating this superb tagine, we can relate. photo credit: Kate Previte Chicken Bastilla We haven’t been this happy to unwrap something since Christmas morning in the late ’90s. The shell on this sweet and savory, icing sugar-dusted pie is so crisp that they'll hear you slice through it all the way over on Steinway Street. photo credit: Kate Previte Kofta Briouate These crispy filo cigars shatter with a satisfying crackle, which only underscores how soft and juicy the generously cumin-spiced minced beef filling is. photo credit: Kate Previte Beef Tanjia No disrespect to the beef, but it's only the third best thing about this very good dish. The gold medal goes to the sauce—an explosion of cumin, preserved lemon, and saffron—and the silver to the basket of crusty bread on the side, much needed to sop that all up. photo credit: Kate Previte Lamb With Vegetables Couscous Dar Lbahja’s couscous (only served Fridays through Sundays) is light and fluffy, but it isn’t our top choice for a main. The lamb lacks the impressive depth of flavor you’ll enjoy in other dishes here, and the portion size of the meat left us wanting more. photo credit: Gene Aquino Grilled Merguez Platter Dar Lbahja’s housemade sausage is packed with smoky, earthy harissa flavor. You can also order it in sandwich form, but we prefer a side of rice to absorb the orange-tinted juices that’ll soon be running all over your plate. photo credit: Gene Aquino Jahwara Some mint tea and dwaz atay (cookies—including melty ghriyba shortbreads and biscotti-like fakas) are a fine way to end your meal. But if the jahwara is available, it's a must. These delicate sheets of fried dough layered with floral-perfumed custard are stunning. photo credit: Kate Previte" - Molly Fitzpatrick
