"It’s a cliché that some restaurants feel like a dinner party at a friend’s house, but Gary’s actually did start as a dinner party for friends. The South Granville space is somewhere in between—the service is warm and homey, but the blank white walls feel more like an art gallery, and the vaguely French food is way beyond what you could do in an apartment kitchen. First-timers, solo diners, and the indecisive, should go with the “for the table” option ($72 per person). Dishes come and go with the seasons, but a couple highlights—but lingcod, sometimes served over flageolet beans and smokey honey mussels in vadouvan butter sauce, plus a bergamot-infused chocolate mousse with salty toasted almonds—have justifiably earned the right to hang around for a while." - Thalia Stopa