Bistro 8 needs salt and more personality - Review - Miami - The Infatuation
"Miami needs more great Mexican restaurants. But Bistro 8’s underseasoned dishes and static energy aren’t helping the cause. Bistro 8 is from the team behind The Taco Stand, which has a location next door. Both use the same wonderful hand-pressed corn tortillas, but the $4.29 carne asada tacos from The Taco Stand are more flavorful than Bistro 8’s dry duck “carnitas”—shredded tableside for an awkward two-ish minutes. Other dishes, like the squid ink fideos and short rib mole, lack richness, spice, and any discernible salt. photo credit: Paul Stoppi photo credit: Luis Meza video credit: Mariana Trabanino Pause Unmute The restaurant shares a parking lot with the original Sanguich on Calle Ocho. But behind Bistro 8’s frosted windows is a stuffy restaurant that feels far too removed from a street where you can buy a hand-rolled cigar, fight a rooster, and listen to Celia Cruz—all within the span of five minutes. Bistro 8 is more appropriate for a silent auction. We couldn’t tell you what, if any, music is playing in the dining room. Probably a similar soundtrack to a Four Seasons elevator. There’s always room for something new and different in a neighborhood as big as Little Havana, but Bistro 8 doesn’t contribute anything substantial to a community with no shortage of bold flavors and even bolder signage. It’s just another expensive, subpar Mexican restaurant. And Miami doesn’t need more of that. Food Rundown Mex-tlan The mex-tlan cocktail is spicy, smoky, and more exciting than just about all of the food. PlayMute video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Tostadas De Camarón, Salsa Macha This would be an excellent bite if the salsa matcha wasn’t as spicy as a three-hour lecture on trickle-down economics. photo credit: Mariana Trabanino Cangrejo, Brioche, Ikura It’s a fine, fresh bite of crab and toasted brioche. But it’s gone too fast for $21. You won’t text your crab-loving friends about it. photo credit: Luis Meza Fideo Negro, Camarón, Almeja, Pulpo The mushy pile of noodles are joined by equally underwhelming (and underseasoned) pieces of grilled shrimp and octopus. It’s not worth the squid ink stains on your teeth. photo credit: Ryan Pfeffer Filet De Res Wagyu, Guacamole De Hierbas, Salsa Martajada This is the only bigger plate we had no objections to. The filet is so tender you could cut it with a dull spoon. When combined with a smear of guacamole, it makes stellar tacos. PlayMute video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Short Rib, Mole Almendrado Three measly scoops of mole are poured tableside over the compact slab of short rib. As diehard mole fans, we’d be furious at the portion if the mole wasn’t so dull. The slab of shredded short rib, once again, needs salt. PlayMute video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Carnitas De Pato We appreciate that they shred the duck meat off the bone for you, even if that process feels like a YouTube ad you’re forced to sit through. We do not appreciate that the duck is overcooked. The pieces of dry duck can be salvaged with a hefty lemon squeeze, every sauce on the table, and a warm tortilla. PlayMute video credit: Mariana Trabanino Mousse De Chocolate, Macadamia, Toronja The mousse is intensely chocolatey, but the texture is grainy. We’re not sure grapefruit was the right citrus pairing for it either. PlayMute video credit: Mariana Trabanino" - Mariana Trabanino
