In the twilight of Indochine, the party's still winding down - Review - New York - The Infatuation

"Indochine wasn’t supposed to make it this far. The Noho restaurant should have flamed out after it opened in 1984 and attracted an unsustainable stable of star power. Warhol, Jagger, that sort of crowd. The place briefly closed in 1992, but after it was sold by Brian McNally—brother of Keith and co-founder of The Odeon—the party picked right back up. It's still kicking, but the restaurant's relevance has faded over the last few decades, and there's no mystery why. The hottest food nowadays is regional and specific, or at least tells a story. Agreeable as it is, Indochine’s Asian Kale Salad doesn’t have much to say. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte Pause Unmute But it was never about the food. Even if celebrity sightings are scarcer now, Indochine still makes for a quintessentially Noho night out. Nostalgia plays a role, and so do the signature leaf-print walls, plump green booths, and ostentatious floral arrangements that belong in the foyer of a reclusive billionaire. There’s also something very New York about a server who can't be bothered to express any interest. It worked for Luger. Why not here? Dining is the only issue, and it’s nothing egregious. The signature spring rolls are entirely generic, and the fried rock shrimp could use some desalinization, but it’s not like you’re here because Bourdain sent you. You come to down martinis that taste like lemonade, make a few polite comments about a plate of shaking beef, and side-eye a crowd before you gawk at your check. A few decades removed, Indochine still excels at ’80s excess. Food Rundown Asian Kale Salad It’s identical to a pile of lawn clippings, but this salad should always be the first thing on your table. With its crispy shallots and standard-issue ginger-miso dressing, it’s charmingly generic and pleasant to pick at. photo credit: Kate Previte Grilled Baby Back Ribs A little dry, sure, but the ribs are still worth exploring. There’s a lot of coriander-crusted meat on these bones, and it slides right off. photo credit: Kate Previte Amok Cambodgien An essential order, if only because it’s a tenured staple of Indochine’s menu. The steaming sole comes wrapped in banana leaf, with a coconut milk sauce that tests the limits of how sweet and salty a piece of fish can be. photo credit: Kate Previte Sticky Rice You could easily make a meal out of the Asian kale salad and this side of sticky rice, and it would be a very decent one. The slivers of Vietnamese sausage really make the dish. photo credit: Kate Previte Shaking Beef Simple, satisfying. When in doubt, order this diced steak in a soy-forward marinade. photo credit: Kate Previte" - Bryan Kim