"Yogurtlu paca There is no wintry situation that a soup or stew from Haringey Corbacisi, a no-menu Turkish spot in Harringay, won’t solve. Wander up to their counter to see what’s on offer but, if in doubt, go for the yogurtlu paca. It’s a lamb and yoghurt soup made up of gently stewed meat, an unsociable amount of garlic, and almost as much butter as Nigella Lawson puts on her toast. The pickles and warm bread that come with it are welcome too, as is everything about this comfortable, low-key restaurant." - Jake Oliver, Rianne Shlebak