Frunze - Review - Lakeview - Chicago - The Infatuation
"Frunze’s menu has pizzas, pasta, tom yum, and beef stroganoff, so the “Italian Restaurant” part of its name is puzzling. (Also puzzling: the smooth sax covers of 2000s pop hits that play in the casual dining room.) But subtitle and soundtrack aside, this Lakeview spot’s food is just fine. The nondescript “Meat Pasta” is spaghetti with chewy slivers of beef in plain but inoffensive tomato sauce. Beef medallions are nicely seasoned but slightly overcooked. The best thing here is the pizza, but the sparsely topped, floppy pies need more tomato sauce and rely solely on salty pepperoni for flavor. Frunze closes at midnight, so it could suffice as a late-night pizza option if you’re nearby. Otherwise, take your pizza-eating elsewhere." - John Ringor
