"The bubbling, smoking, flaming energy of this cash-only Pashtun restaurant in Tooting clings to your brain like the formative memory of a thrilling house party. While downstairs is for the people, upstairs is strictly VIP. Reservations are essential and a gargantuan pre-ordered lamb sajji is strongly recommended. Group meals take place cross-legged, in one of their stark, white-lit, pillow-laden rooms. The lamb sajji (be it a leg, a half, or an entire creature) arrives in a trough, the meat sitting on a nation’s supply of kabli pulao. It’s pink, tender, and best attacked with hands. Mess and memories are made at Namak Mandi, and the more stomachs, the better." - Jake Oliver, Rianne Shlebak, Sinead Cranna
Aleksandra Boruch
