"Varmuteo, from the team behind Japanese-Mediterranean hotspot Alapar, is Sant Antoni’s take on Cheers. Better still, the recent move from its former closet-sized premises to a new, slightly larger space across the road has the neighborhood regulars rejoicing. It checks all the boxes of a great local eating and drinking spot: friendly, knowledgeable staff, and an excellent selection of drinks, including at least 20 kinds of vermut. It also doesn’t hurt that a glass of wine is €3.50, and dishes are around €6-€8. Get here to vermutear (“to go for vermut,” a thing locals like to do several times a week), or for multiple rounds of drinks and tapas. You should stick around for dinner, too, as the food is unapologetically comforting—and ideal for soaking up all that fortified wine. Go in on the flavor-packed brioche loaded with fricandó." - isabelle kliger