Vitolo - Review - Fort Lauderdale - Miami - The Infatuation
"Vitolo is a classic Italian restaurant with a sister restaurant in New York called Emilio’s Ballato that's wildly popular and serves a similar menu to the Florida location. But eating baked clams in a Nolita dining room that’s been in business since Eisenhower's presidency is special. Eating baked clams in a shiny, touristy hotel on A1A in Fort Lauderdale—no matter how good the baked clams are—doesn't quite scratch the same itch. Despite quick, friendly, and efficient service in Vitolo's cavernous room, we find ourselves craving low ceilings, candlelight, and someone related to the chef embarking on a passionate tirade about the family's vodka sauce recipe. Still, Vitolo in Fort Lauderdale makes satisfying Italian American dishes. Everything is big and saucy, and al dente pasta comes to the table hot and steaming. We especially like the Vitello Antonio, an off-menu special at their sister restaurant. It's always on the menu here, and should definitely be on the table if you’re with a few friends who want a thrilling slab of veal. Vitolo might not have the magic intangibles of a classic, but it works just fine for big groups who want impressive, well-made dishes that guarantee leftovers. Food Rundown photo credit: The Louis Collection Vongole Oreganata Resist the urge to inhale the free bread when it arrives. Instead, save your bread to sop up the lemon sauce served with these solid baked clams. It's the best part of the dish. photo credit: The Louis Collection Caesar This salad comes with a slightly unnecessary tableside presentation, in which a server slices whole romaine lettuce leaves into manageable pieces. And while that could have easily been done in the kitchen, you’ll still enjoy this standard caesar. photo credit: The Louis Collection Vitello Antonio The $90 price tag on this beast is a bit easier to swallow when you realize it easily feeds three or four people. The veal can’t be any thicker than a centimeter and hangs off its large plate, covered in a volcanic eruption of vodka sauce, fried prosciutto, and mozzarella. This is special occasion veal. photo credit: The Louis Collection Spicy Paccheri Alla Vodka It won’t upstage the veal, but these paccheri are nicely al dente, and large enough to be used as a sleeping bag for squirrels. Just don’t expect too much heat from the “spicy” vodka sauce." - Ryan Pfeffer
