"On the door of Lillo Cucina in Cobble Hill, taped-up signs make three things clear: the Italian restaurant is cash-only, doesn't serve alcohol, and has no bathroom. Inside, there are six tables, 17 seats, handwritten specials on various scraps of paper hung to the wall, and Giampietro “Lillo” Remia—the chef-owner—who greets guests, takes orders, and pauses to ask if the late afternoon sun is getting in your eyes, before pulling the curtain shut ever so slightly. The food could be bad and we'd probably still fall for this place—a one-man show where the lack of liquor saves you from the lack of bathroom. But the deeply comforting Roman classics are excellent, and nothing on the two-page menu costs over $20, except for the branzino alla Lillo, which is $25. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte Focus on the pastas, like the uncomplicated rigatoni alla gricia, or the pillowy beet gnocchi, unless Lillo recommends something else. If that happens, you should listen, because you might get some delicately cooked pork ribs, which fall seamlessly from their bones to the plates to your mouth, until there is nothing left but a pool of meat-accented olive oil. (There's free bread for sopping.) The restaurant is tiny enough that you'll end up chatting with whoever's sitting next to you—the regular who's been coming here since it opened in 2017, a first-timer eating alone who offers you a bite of their prosciutto with burrata, or a Cobble Hill toddler, who seems to share your excitement for beautifully simple Italian food, even if she doesn’t actually talk yet. Food Rundown photo credit: Kate Previte Carciofi A pile of artichokes, cooked just enough so that you can cut them with the side of a fork, and then sink your teeth into them. There's a few fried basil leaves on top, and an extra-generous glug of olive oil. photo credit: Willa Moore Broccoli di Rape People often screw up broccoli rabe, transforming it into a bitter mess that no one wants to touch. Lillo doesn't. His version has big chunks of garlic, a shower of red pepper flakes, and no bite at all. photo credit: Kate Previte Gricia If you're coming here alone, get this. If you're coming here with a group, get this. If you've had the very worst day, get this, and if you're celebrating making it through the week, get this. The rigatoni is saucy and soft, with a heavy hand of parmesan cheese, and crispy chunks of guanciale. It is simple, and it is perfect. photo credit: Willa Moore Amatriciana Less like a classic amatriciana, more like a red sauce with porky bits. We like this pasta for its deliciously straightforward red sauce, but if you're looking for traditional Roman dishes, we'd opt for the gricia, or cacio e pepe. photo credit: Willa Moore Costolette di Maiale con Patate This dish involves a stack of pork ribs reminiscent of Lincoln Logs, and fried potatoes swimming in olive oil. The color palate is brown and beige, the ribs are fall-off-the-bone. We love it. photo credit: Kate Previte Tiramisu The only thing at Lillo Cucina that isn't made to order. Here's why that matters: even on an evening when you don't have dinner here (maybe you’re getting a martini or three at Long Island Bar), you can always stop by for a massive, $9 heap of house-made tiramisu to go. You're welcome." - Willa Moore
