"New York City’s most ambitious fine dining establishment is in a former warehouse on Green Street. Grandiose, ridiculous, Noma-esque—there are many things you could accuse Ilis of being, but uptight isn’t one of them. The experimental, Nordic-influenced restaurant is a surprisingly laid-back place where a server might hit you with a fist bump after pouring molten beeswax over a sweet potato tableside. Choose from a five-course prix fixe for $195 or a 12+ course tasting for $295, or just sit at the bar and grab a few bites. The rotating menu is hyper-local and always surprising, with items like lobster poached in rosewater and bigeye tuna wrapped in foraged nasturtium." - bryan kim, neha talreja, will hartman, molly fitzpatrick