NYC's Greatest Old-School Italian Restaurants, From Oldest To Newest

"Tra Di Noi opened in 2002—an unimpressive date when you consider the other places on this list—but we’re throwing it on here anyway. This Arthur Avenue restaurant is like something out of a movie, without trying too hard to feel like a Godfather marathon: it’s got checkerboard tablecloths, chalkboard specials, and empty-nester owners who’ve been married for over 50 years. While her Italian husband cooks carbonara in the kitchen, your host, a born-and-bred New Yorker, will speak on the day’s swordfish special like it’s her daughter’s first dance recital. And when a nearby table chimes in to confirm that, yes, the swordfish is to die for—and hey, do you want some of our wine—accept the wine, order the fish, and pay it forward with your own enthusiastic exit interview." - willa moore, will hartman, sonal shah, neha talreja