"Silk Road is an upscale dim sum restaurant in Upper Kirby that trades the push carts and big banquet tables of a classic dim sum parlor for something even more casual. And by that, we mean it’s in the usual breakfast dining area of a Courtyard Marriott, where clean white tabletops and pretty dishware do their best to distract you from the fact that someone just asked for extra towels at the front desk 10 feet away. The effect is part fine dining, part off-brand speakeasy—if that speakeasy specialized in soup dumplings and shared a wall with the business center. The food is mostly good, with handmade dumplings and a few standout bites, but the pricing leans Four Seasons while the portions whisper “light snack.” This isn’t the place to relive your nostalgic Hong Kong dim sum feast, but if you’re not phased by unconventional atmospheres and steep prices, Silk Road is worth a stop. Food Rundown Stuffed Tofu Skin The tofu skins are nice and crispy and the shrimp are juicy. These are good, but petite. photo credit: NICOLAI MCCRARY Xiao Long Bao The wrappers are thin, delicate, and filled with a savory broth that pairs nicely with a splash of black vinegar. The texture of the meat inside is a little softer than we like, but still satisfying. photo credit: NICOLAI MCCRARY Cheung Fun Silk Road’s signature dish arrives as four thumb-sized bites filled with fried shrimp, instead of the usual small pile of rolled noodles. At $13, they’re pricey—especially if you want more than a bite or two. photo credit: NICOLAI MCCRARY Siu Mai These pork and shrimp dumplings came out rubbery and topped with overly fishy tobiko. The weakest of the bunch—skippable. photo credit: NICOLAI MCCRARY Stir-Fried Vegetables A simple but solid mix of bok choy and mushrooms in a light broth. Not your classic dim sum side, but a nice way to balance the table. photo credit: NICOLAI MCCRARY" - Nicolai McCrary