"Leo’s fits right in with River Oaks. It’s expensive, there’s a serious dress code, and $20 drinks are standard. We can forgive these details with other spots because their food is worthwhile. However, this American restaurant feels more like a fancy disappointment than an exclusive hotspot. photo credit: Corey Watson photo credit: Corey Watson photo credit: Corey Watson Amid a sea of white tablecloths and wallpaper embossed with golden lions, we expect the food here to be at least half as lavish as the atmosphere. While the price tag fits the bill, the food quality feels out of place in an environment so fancy. Like the gelatinous scallop crudo and the overcooked lobster thermidor, which makes us feel like we’re being Punk’d. The sides are equally disappointing. The broccolini arrives beautiful but is severely undercooked. Halfway through the meal, it becomes clear that no overzealous celebrity will come running out from around the corner. All of this letdown happens while their pianist continues to plunk out songs from the out-of-tune piano. But if you’re in River Oaks, dressed up with no other plans, Leo's will give you an elegantly subdued experience with a lemon drop cocktail and a passable slice of carrot cake. Food Rundown photo credit: Gianni Greene Scallop Crudo Thanks to the lack of freshness, this dish is more like a mouth full of rubber than a light seafood dish. Avoid this at all costs. Broccolini While these veggies are a gorgeous shade of bright green, they involve a concerning amount of crunch that’ll make you wish the broccolini were cooked a bit longer. And considering there’s more oil on the vegetables than flavor, you aren’t missing much if you skip this. photo credit: Gianni Greene Lobster Thermidor There’s a generous amount of butter involved, but that isn’t enough to cover up the overwhelming burnt flavor of the lobster. If the extra-crispy crustacean isn't enough for you, there is a fennel and radish salad that’s fit for a peckish rabbit. photo credit: Gianni Greene Carrot Cake The carrot cake is just OK, automatically making it the best dish at Leo’s. It’s not an award-winning dessert, but if you desperately want something sweet and a palette cleanser from your meal, this is the one to order." - Gianni Greene
