"There’s only one deli-by-day, trattoria-by-night that serves a five-course, $100 tasting menu to the tune of My Chemical Romance or Fall Out Boy. Before 5pm at this South Philly shop, grill dads hover over the glass case admiring a perfect slab of shortribs, but come sundown, guests are seated around the open kitchen for unexpected, intricate dishes like aged toro with peperonata, agrodolce onion, and fennel pollen, or goat ragu on a creamy mattress of house-milled polenta. Stop by early for a game day Italiano platter or stacked sandwich. But if you want to dine in the smoky beef heart of it all, make a reservation, grab a bottle of your favorite red, and prepare to relive your garage band fantasies for just one night." - candis mclean, alison kessler