"Suppose you want to grab a bowl of phở inside an Art Deco subway station, feeling the breeze of an incoming train while stuffing your mouth full of rice noodles. Dipping Tiger is the pared-down Houston restaurant that gets the closest to that daydream. Opened by the folks behind Tiger Den, this place offers a tight list of 15 beef-based soups, exactly one appetizer (egg rolls), and a few drinks and light beers. The clarified broth is deep, rich, and warmly seasoned but light, like silk that tastes like pure phở flavor. One spoonful of broth, squishy meatballs, thinly sliced rare beef, and bone marrow will make you sit up, and rightly consider swigging down a bowl with both hands." - gianni greene, chelsea thomas