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"The family who run Atush showed zero signs of wanting to serve us an eviction notice after getting chilli oil on their wooden tables. And it’s for that reason and a million others—the hypnotic chew of the handmade leghmen, the blessing of BYOB without corkage, the re-runs of the Uyghur version ofThe Voiceplaying on the TV— that we’re declaring Atush to be the antidote for anyone who is sick of eating out in the name of polished hype." - Heidi Lauth Beasley