"Sunn’s tiny open kitchen only has one small oven and a single induction burner. It looks DIY, but the Chinatown wine bar with just six tables is deceptively ambitious. Banchan is the main attraction, and the bad news is: You have to pay for it. But here, those little sides—typically free at Korean restaurants—take on new forms. It’s not just kimchi. Depending on the day, you might also find mushrooms in tahini, oxtail pressed into a terrine, or Korean-style giardiniera. Start with a set (around $23), then move on to the more traditional items like big, floppy mandu in a glistening chicken broth." - bryan kim, kenny yang, willa moore, will hartman