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"The tableside mozzarella cart is the first thing you’ll notice at Hypsi, a new all-day restaurant inside Hotel Daphne in the Heights. After you sink into your vintage velvet chair, your server will ask if you want it wheeled over, and you should say yes. The mozzarellas come with seasonal toppings like pickled kumquats, "drunken" currants, or fresh tarragon, which gives you an idea of the menu here. Led by half of the duo behind the late-and-great The Pass & Provisions, Hypsi livens up Italian classics with spiffy touches, like golden, crisp arancini with a cheesy black truffle center. Or grilled octopus draped in polenta foam. Or an incredible lumache alla vodka with heat from 'nduja. Or a tomato-and-olive negroni that feels more like a snack than a drink. Dinner is booked and busy right now, and happy hour is perfect for snacks. Whenever you come, bring friends who like to graze and cap things off with tres leches tiramisu." - Brooke Viggiano