"If you’re shopping in River Oaks and can’t think about anything but Neapolitan-style pizza, then go to Pizzana. The Los Angeles transplant with celebrity backing mostly makes satisfactory pizzas, like the $21 margherita with fresh mozzarella. But occasionally a pie arrives slightly under-baked with a knot of raw dough in the crust, a surprise no one gets excited about. Plus, the inside of the restaurant has all the charm of a recently closed mall kiosk. Either take a pizza to-go or drive a couple extra miles to Pizzaro’s Pizza Napoletana." - Chelsea Thomas