"At this Irish spot in Chelsea, there’s no naughty corner for diners who ask for their sirloin well done. The butter is served on jade slabs and there’s a TV personality chef in the kitchen, but it’s a relaxed affair soundtracked by Shane MacGowan’s cigarette rasp. Dream Irish road trip in the making, the nine-course tasting menu is the best option and trots from County Derry salami to Clare for duck, then onto Clonakilty for meltingly soft black pudding." - heidi lauth beasley, jake missing, sinead cranna, rianne shlebak