"When you learn that Sushi W offers a 60-minute, 17-course nigiri and handroll omakase for $63 (including tip), you’ll ask yourself two questions: Is the quality any good? And is that pace logistically possible? The answers, respectively, are: “Yes, for sure” and “Yes, but barely.” The chefs behind the 12-seat counter at this Upper West Side spot are in constant motion, and we’re genuinely concerned about their future carpal tunnel syndrome-related medical bills. All the fish here is fresh, and although portions are inconsistent, none approach the territory of “offensively small.” Highlights include the torched sablefish and warm, silky unagi, but the best piece is the chutoro sprinkled with salt. There’s very little time for conversation, so Sushi W is a great place for solo dining. You might be used to chatting up the chefs at omakase places, but the considerate thing to do here is to leave them the f*ck alone. photo credit: Emily Schindler Food Rundown photo credit: Kenny Yang Chutoro This medium-fatty tuna sprinkled with salt is the best thing here, but it’s only available if you opt for the premium $63 omakase. (The basic omakase costs $48 and comes with three fewer pieces.) photo credit: Emily Schindler Kalbi Also a part of the premium omakase, this lightly-torched piece of short rib comes with a little chili sauce and raw garlic, and it couldn’t be more tender. photo credit: Emily Schindler Salmon Although billed as regular salmon, this piece is so luscious that it tastes more like salmon belly. It comes with a squeeze of lemon and grated daikon on top. Ikura The restaurant’s ikura is in a massive bowl, which a chef places in front of you before dumping a healthy portion on top of a small sheet of nori with rice for you to form a little hand roll. You’ll have an uncontrollable urge to stick a boba tea straw in that bowl and start sucking up salmon roe. photo credit: Kenny Yang Uni There’s nothing unique about Sushi W’s uni. But it tastes really fresh, the portion is larger than you’d expect, and we like how it comes in a U-shaped roll. photo credit: Emily Schindler Unagi The unagi here starts to fall apart as soon as you put it in your mouth. The eel is warm, savory, and slightly sweet, and if for some reason it’s not included, you should add it to your omakase." - Kenny Yang
