"When the cashier at Tijuanazo asks you, “Con todo?” say yes—this East LA taquería knows what it’s doing. A popular chain from Tijuana (and, confusingly enough, the sibling of Cypress Park’s Taqueria Frontera, run by another one of the founder’s children), Tijuanazo stands out in this taco-rich city for its expertise in meat and salsa pairings. That sounds fancy, but it just means there’s no salsa bar—and that you should put trust in your taquero. The counter-service spot, housed in a big saucer-shaped building along Atlantic Avenue, tops its tacos with specific corresponding condiments and, like many Tijuana-style taquerías, wraps each one in paper like a mini bouquet. If you’re cool with relinquishing control and leaning into Tijuanazo’s curated approach, you’ll be rewarded with maximum flavor. photo credit: Jessie Cohen photo credit: Jessie Cohen photo credit: Jessie Cohen photo credit: Jessie Cohen photo credit: Jessie Cohen One bite of their signature adobada and you’ll see what we mean. The smoky, spicy al pastor is cooled down with a splat of cilantro crema and a sliver of sweet pineapple that slices through the dried chile heat. Crucial details show up elsewhere, too. The jiggly chopped cabeza with salsa verde comes on warm double-layered corn tortillas for support. There’s a noticeable tang to the carne asada’s marinade that pops under its dollop of fresh guacamole. As with most curated experiences, expect to spend a bit more than your average taqueria (tacos cost just under $4). But considering each order at Tijuanazo comes with table service, a dedicated parking lot, and a menu designed by someone with a sixth sense for assembling tacos, it’s a price we’ll happily pay. Food Rundown photo credit: Jessie Cohen Asada Taco This asada taco might be missing the charred bits we love (it’s cooked on a plancha rather than a grill), but it still delivers on flavor. The beef is tenderized in lime, and you pick up residual smoke flavor from the hot griddle. This isn’t the most memorable taco at Tijuanazo but you won’t be disappointed, either. photo credit: Jessie Cohen Cabeza Taco We’ve been let down by tacos de cabeza more times than the Clippers in the playoffs, but we’d make a special trip just to eat the ones at Tijuanazo. Tender beef cheeks are finely chopped until the fatty parts melt into the soft meat, then paired with a punchy salsa verde with tons of acid and heat. Note the use of two lightly fried corn tortillas that add needed support and a nice chewy contrast to the salsa-drenched beef. photo credit: Jessie Cohen Taco Azteca with Lengua Tijuanazo’s tender lengua can be ordered as a quesadilla, mulita, vampiro, etc., but we love it as a Taco Azteca: a tortilla-less taco served on a griddled cactus paddle. The two opposing ingredients work like a match made by some all-powerful algorithm. The tender nopal is fresh and a little tart, and the rich slow-cooked tongue is salty and supple. photo credit: Jessie Cohen Birria Quesataco There’s drippy beef birria that gets all over your chin, then there’s dry beef birria that ruins your day. Tijuanazo nails the middle ground. Their braised beef is infused with smoky, spicy consommé and not so oily that it struggles to stick to the griddled cheese. You don’t need to order a side of consommé for dunking, so save yourself a few bucks or spend it on a side of their house frijoles instead. photo credit: Jessie Cohen Adobada Vampiro Cilantro crema, fresh pineapple, and spicy adobada make a fantastic trio, like the Bee Gees or Charlie’s Angels (the 2000s version). The juicy pork tastes spicy, sweet, and a little smoky, and we like how the thin tostada used for the vampiro delivers more meat and less masa in each bite." - Sylvio Martins
