
5

"Celebrating its third anniversary, this relaxed fine-dining spot in the heart of Budapest marries French technique with Hungarian ingredients and spirit, all inside a honeycomb-shaped, art-gallery-like room of light wood and soft industrial greys inspired by chef Ákos Sárközi’s painter wife, Evi. Plates are conceived as edible artworks, with aesthetics leading the creative process but flavors landing beautifully: Jerusalem artichokes with vanilla cream and artichoke chips arrive with a glass of dry Tokaj; then a soft oval “jellyfish” crowned by a fish-shaped golden biscuit reveals itself as silky foie gras mousse, a playful nod to a national staple. Throughout the meal, textures surprise the palate, the cooking stays balanced and technically precise, and the mood remains joyful and fun while firmly rooted in real gastronomy. Game cookery is a strength—venison sourced directly from hunters, plus farmed rabbit, pigeon and partridge—showcased in dishes like fawn saddle with tomato purée and black curry salsify, and a pheasant soup with homemade noodles. A thrifty, Hungarian sensibility underpins the kitchen: liver and heart are prized, potato skins become chips, and vegetables are fermented like a countryside grandma might. The chef’s warm, playful presence animates the room, he canvasses guests for feedback and freely shares recipes, and you can even slip behind the scenes because, as he likes to say, there are no secrets here. Two longtime protégés now lead the stoves in Textúra and sibling Borkonyha, and on the way to the restrooms a lucky garden gnome invites a head‑pat and a wish—one more reason I’m eager to return for another creative dinner." - Le Guide MICHELIN