Inspector Visits: Terra Dominicata, Three Key Hotel Outside Barcelona

"A twisting two-hour drive from Barcelona brings me to one of Spain’s MICHELIN Three Key hotels, where luxury is drawn from a deliberate balance of comforts and absence. Set within Montsant Natural Park in the Priorat, the restored centuries-old farmhouses that once supported the nearby 12th-century monastery keep sober, geometric exteriors of local red earth, while inside I find sunlit, contemporary rooms with whimsical touches—wicker baskets, accent ladders, and hanging shelves—opening to vineyard and hill views. On arrival I’m softened up with a cocktail and a clear code of sustainability: go easy on showers, expect sparse night lighting to protect wildlife and the starry sky, and don’t look for a television—though I’m invited to swap one of my books with the estate’s massive collection. The restaurant serves local Spanish favorites, the pool and a minimalist spa hide among olive trees with private-by-the-hour slots for the sauna, whirlpool, and cold shower, and the concierge lines up treks, vineyard visits, and nearby villages and historic sites. Terra Dominicata’s own winery is the standout, pouring three vintages shaped by the region’s steep terraces and mineral-rich volcanic soils of slate and quartzite, yielding intense, concentrated wines best sipped in the cellar or under the restaurant’s pergola. The commitment to nature is real—I learn construction once paused for three months to let nesting eagles hatch their young—so forgoing a long shower feels like a fair trade. For a final flourish, Room 22 hides a secret corridor behind a bookshelf, a one-in-a-million passageway to the restaurant that underscores the property’s blend of history and authenticity." - The MICHELIN Guide