"What exactly is Funso Akinya doing back there, in the kitchen at Akara House (642 Nostrand Ave.; $5-$16), his tiny takeout counter in Crown Heights? The first time I tried his food, I looked up from my cardboard container in stunned silence. None of the short, straightforward menu descriptions, hand-painted on the wall—“bean based burger,” “yam porridge (& beans)”—came close to conveying the culinary wizardry at play, though a passerby nailed it: “They got the good food in there!” he shouted through the open door." - Hannah Goldfield
