"After fifty-seven years in the Seagram Building, the restaurant—its reputation tarnished by an allegation of sexual abuse by one of the owners (he pleaded guilty to misdemeanor assault)—closed in 2016. In August, it reopened, just a few blocks away, in an eerily similar space. The food, never the establishment’s greatest draw, despite astonishingly high prices, was sad, too. An appetizer of grilled squid, served with toasted pumpkin seeds, pea shoots, and sautéed cabbage, glimmered with promise. But the biggest hit seemed still to be the Four Seasons’ most classic calling card, an off-menu tower of pale-pink cotton candy, reserved for guests celebrating special occasions. Entrées $32-$85." - Hannah Goldfield
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