Hokkaido Cuisine at Dr. Clark, in Chinatown | The New Yorker

"Dr. Clark’s menu is inspired by Hokkaido, the northernmost of Japan’s main islands, known for hot springs and skiing—Dr. William Clark, an American professor of chemistry, was hired by the Japanese government to establish an agricultural college there in 1876—and it’s particularly suited to cold weather. One of the banner dishes is a Hokkaido specialty known as jingisukan (“Genghis Khan”), for which thinly sliced, marinated lamb is cooked, with onions, bean sprouts, and chives, on very hot tabletop grills said to resemble the Mongolian warlord’s helmet. But there’s plenty that’s perfect for warmer temperatures: frosty mugs of crisp Sapporo; tart shochu sours, featuring the rice-based liquor mixed with lemon juice or ume. The 'addictive cabbage' is exactly as advertised—cool and crunchy, slicked with mayo and dusted in shichimi togarashi—and the same simple formula works beautifully on cold noodles in a ramen salad. Summery seafood offerings include sashimi, charred fillets of horse mackerel wrapped around asparagus, and an exceptionally buttery scallop risotto, served appealingly on the pearly half shell. Tall rings of squid, battered and fried to a honeyed hue, pair nicely with French fries bearing the same color and crunch plus a gloss of anchovy cream sauce: fish and chips by way of Hokkaido by way of Baxter and Bayard, iconically New York. (Dishes $5-$48.)" - Hannah Goldfield