Barbecued Ribs from a Michelin-Starred Chef | The New Yorker

"Available most weekends in Manhattan and parts of Brooklyn, Ribs n Reds is a delivery pop-up built around the chef Bryce Shuman’s spare ribs—half and full St. Louis–cut racks that are slow-cooked and finished under a salamander to produce fatty, crisp-edged meat that shreds easily off the bone and yields soft, rich connective cartilage. The heat-and-serve menu lets you glaze the ribs with smoked-honey barbecue, hot pepper, or sweet molasses before warming; seasonal accompaniments have included a summer salad of greenmarket tomatoes, peaches, and basil and, as temperatures dropped, a tart composition of pickled beets, watercress, and turmeric yogurt mixed with tahini. Other highlights that transcend seasons are a wonderfully coarse, crunchy coleslaw with green apple and honey‑mustard dressing, jarred dilly beans, light crumbly corn bread with honey butter, bubbly baked mac and cheese with Cheddar and paccheri, and an excellent fried chicken with green‑pepper ranch. The menu has also featured a frothy butternut‑squash soup (made with a variety from Jennifer’s uncle’s Maryland farm) packaged in a Mason jar, a molasses‑glazed whole roasted Koginut squash topped with toasted nuts and seeds for nonmeat eaters, and curated drink pairings (canned Vinny sparkling rosé or Terrassen Cabernet Franc). There are special menus for Thanksgiving and New Year’s Eve (including beef tenderloin, brown‑butter carrots, maple‑roasted Brussels sprouts, and optional caviar), dishes range from $7–$45, a portion of proceeds goes to the Brooklyn Community Bail Fund, and despite the kitchen polish—Bryce admits “it’s kind of a step up”—the food remains humble, familiar, and unpretentious." - Hannah Goldfield