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"A pocket-size storefront in Long Island City selling an array of Korean side dishes and other prepared foods, it serves as the discreet gateway to the backroom dining at Meju; late into the evening its shelves are ablaze under fluorescent lighting, and during the intermission I found myself browsing in a slightly exit-through-the-gift-shop haze—yes, I may have bought a twelve-dollar jar of peach preserves out of browsers’ guilt." - H, e, l, e, n, , R, o, s, n, e, r