"Diners are enveloped in velvet at the West Village restaurant Le B., both literally (velvet banquettes, velvet barstools) and in a more abstract sense. The service is gentle, the courses unfurl at an adagio-like pace. Even the very air of the restaurant seems to have a lushness to it, though that might just be wafts of browning butter from a nearby tableside steak flambé. The restaurant, operated by the veteran New York chef Angie Mar, was until a few months ago Les Trois Chevaux, Mar’s homage to the mid-century French haute cuisine of places past like Lutèce and La Côte Basque." - Helen Rosner