"“I’m a chaat person,” explained Nowshin Ali the other day, over FaceTime. We were discussing the menu at Jalsa Grill & Gravy, the restaurant she co-owns with her business partner, Anurag Shrivastava, in Brooklyn’s Little Pakistan, south of Prospect Park. Ali and Shrivastava met while co-managing a nearby Afghani restaurant; in 2018, they opened their own place, featuring the food of their native India. For Ali, who immigrated to the U.S. with her young son in 2013, this means the signature dishes of Lucknow, her home town, including chaats and biryani." - Hannah Goldfield