"Nearly two millennia ago Roman engineers used ruina montium to reshape the hills here, and walking the gullies and galleries at Las Médulas makes that history vividly present: jagged red cliffs, hollows and gullies softened by chestnut forests form a surreal, UNESCO World Heritage landscape where I love the quiet and the scent of chestnuts. I recommend shorter routes like the Senda de las Valiñas (4km loop) through shady groves and Roman openings or the steep climb to Mirador de Orellán for spectacular sunset views; for a bit of adventure try the restored Galería de Orellán to imagine miners working by torchlight, and the longer Senda Perimetral (14km loop) if you want a full circuit past secluded forests and farms. Nearby sites such as Castro de Chano and the lesser-known Mirador de Reirigo add depth to visits. Practical notes I follow: stay in Ponferrada (about half an hour away), visit in autumn for golden foliage or spring for wildflowers, and bring water, a snack and maps or a GPS app for the longer hikes." - Matthew Kepnes