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"Standing on a platform over the Ebro Delta, I joined mollusk farmer Albert Grasa at Musclarium, a sustainable mollusk farm and open-air restaurant just offshore from the fishing town of Sant Carles de la Ràpita; Grasa shucked a newly opened oyster that I slurped, savoring its natural sweetness and the saline tang of the Mediterranean while watching oysters and mussels grow on ropes above the emerald water (tastings from $22)." - Isabelle Kliger