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"We headed to Portozuelo, the idyllic farm outside Oaxaca City where Alejandro Ruiz grew up and now runs a restaurant and event space; everything there is cooked in the traditional Oaxacan way over an open wood fire with ingredients from the market or grown on site, and after helping assemble a 28-ingredient mole we sat at a long wooden table to share rich bowls of mole and, for dessert, fresh pan de muertos." - Flora Stubbs Flora Stubbs Flora Stubbs is the executive editor of Travel + Leisure. She has been a journalist for over 20 years, and a travel editor for over a decade. Travel + Leisure Editorial Guidelines